Featured Producer
Domaine de Chérisey
The lost hamlet of Blagny, up in the hills between Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault in the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, is home to Domaine Comtesse Bernard de Chérisey. You may have heard the name “Blagny” before, attached to a bottle of premier cru Meursault-Blagny, or perhaps even a bottle of the increasingly rare Blagny rouge. Monks were the first inhabitants, planting vines in the 14th century. This almost magical, lost-in-time corner of the world boasts a unique microclimate, with a slightly different average temperature, exposition and soil than the rest of Burgundy. In our humble opinion, our friend and vigneron, Laurent Martelet, creates the most haunting masterpieces that emerge from this terroir. Laurent bottles the wines we import under the Comtesse Bernard de Chérisey label named in honor of his wife Hélène’s mother, who inherited their vines and passed them on to Hélène, who works side by side with Laurent.All of the de Chérisey vines are premier cru, are at least 60 years old, and they encircle their ancient cellar in the Hameau de Blagny. Their Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is from vines on the south side of Blagny, level with the village, just above Puligny Truffières. It is a wine that combines the power and richness of Meursault with the ethereal finesse of Puligny. Laurent’s Puligny-Montrachet1er Cru Les Chalumeux is from vines just below Blagny, between the aforementioned Truffières and Meursault-Perrières. If you were a Chardonnay vine it wouldn’t be a bad place to put down your roots. The wine is loaded with white limestone and gives a very fine, intensely focused white Burgundy, très Puligny, screaming with minerality. It doesn’t have the renown of its neighbors, but it should. The de Chérisey Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte is from a vineyard just north of Blagny, on the Meursault side of course, high on the slope above the village. The wine is a powerful, classic, long-lived Meursault. The Genelotte vineyard is also a monopole meaning Laurent and Hélène are sole proprietors.
Domaine Jean-Marc Vincent
Anne-Marie and Jean-Marc Vincent inherited most of their vines, principally located in and around the village of Santenay in the southern Côte de Beaune, from Jean-Marc’s grandfather, André Bardollet-Bravard. They produce three premier cru reds and two premier cru whites from Santenay, in addition to a red and a white Auxey-Duresses. The Vincent wines are characterized by rich, layered fruit, intense expression of individual terroir, and solid structure.Their Auxey-Duresses Blanc “Les Hautés,” which thankfully happens to be their highest production wine (that is, more than two barrels produced), is a gem and a role model for other producers of the appellation. This is the wine that first attracted Kermit to the domaine. “I had rarely had an Auxey-Duresses that excited my taste buds,” he said, “I knew I was on to something.” And indeed it will embarrass many a white Burgundy with a greater pedigree. It also evolves well in one’s cellar. The Vincents’ wine operation is a family affair and A-M and J-M split their time between the vineyards, cellars and their young children. Their miniscule production always sells out quickly to a small group of devoted clients. All of their wines are a testament to the importance of vigneron talent in a given appellation. While a great vigneron can make over-achievers from any appellation, a great appellation will never be great in the hands of mediocrity.
Clos Sainte Magdeleine
The ancient fishing village of Cassis has seen its fair share of visitors over the millennia. The Phoenicians first arrived in the sixth century B.C., and with them came the timeless Ugni Blanc grape and viticultural savvy. The Romans later made their way here, as well as their Barbarian successors, followed by the medieval Counts of Les Baux, all the way to tourists of the modern era looking to escape the cold, dark cities. Cassis is not only an active port, but what Kermit calls “an earthly paradise.” The vineyards of Clos Sainte Magdeleine are particularly stunning. They jut out on a private cape to meet majestic limestone cliffs, poised spectacularly above the sparkling, azure Mediterranean. With landscapes such as these, it is only fitting that writers and poets alike have found inspiration in Cassis. Only a handful of vignerons today are fortunate enough to produce A.O.C. Cassis, and the small quantities available are largely consumed locally with fresh fish—the best way to enjoy them. The Sack-Zafiropulos family has been making wine here for four generations and has continued to craft wines of grace and finesse, just as they were when founder Jules Savon won the Gold Medal for the domaine at the World’s Fair in 1900. That they share their limited quantities with us makes this long-term relationship all the more special.Viticulture and vinification at Clos Sainte Magdeleine is under the direction of François Sack. The domaine bottles both a white and a rosé, the latter of which is especially limited. Sack just started the three-year long conversion to organic viticulture, a philosophic progression after years of sustainable farming. Clos Sainte Magdeleine’s success lies in an uncanny ability to capture a dichotomous nerve and sun-kissed unctuousness in their wines, making them both incredibly food-friendly and delicious entirely on their own.
Catherine Le Goeuil
The hilltop village of Cairanne on the left bank of the southern Rhône between Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine is a picture of Provençal fantasy where fields of lavender paint the landscape purple and proud plain trees line the marketplace in the center of town. Cairanne belongs to the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation and is widely regarded as the star among the seventeen villages that have the right to use this designation.Catherine Le Goeuil’s taste for adventure has made her a leading pioneer in Cairanne. Having been born in the Congo to French parents, she had already lived in interesting places, but she longed to return to her roots. In 1993, with little experience and great determination, she and her family bought a six-hectare domaine. Soon after implementing one of their first chemical treatments on the vines, Catherine became very ill. The viticultural direction for the domaine became instantly clear. In her mind, farming as naturally as possible was the only way to go. Over time, she started the conversion to organic farming, and is now fully certified in this methodology. In a village just shy of one thousand inhabitants and only two others who farm organically nearby, her decisions have been met with suspicion and trepidation. Though rooted to the place both figuratively and literally, she is still considered an outsider—not that she lets this dilute her conviction in any way.
Cairanne is located deep in the heart of the Vaucluse and boasts spectacular views of the famous Dentelles de Montmirail and Mont Ventoux. Catherine’s vineyards are frequently subject to the forceful mistral, which is known to purify vines of excess moisture when it is not wreaking havoc on her beautiful flower garden. Her vineyards enjoy all the benefits of organic farming: a grassy cover crop in between vineyard rows that provides nutrients and microbiotic growth and well-aerated soils in a typically tough and relatively impermeable sandy molasse. She credits this soil for giving her wines with finesse and approachability, but she deserves credit, too. Brave trailblazing, risk-taking, and persistence in the face of scrutiny have given this creative maverick the fortitude to make delicious, elegant blends year after year.
Domaine du Salvard
Domaine du Salvard has been a working domaine since 1898, through five hardworking generations of the Delaille family. Today, all forty-two hectares of vineyards are farmed by the capable brother team of Emmanuel and Thierry Delaille, with help from their father Gilbert. To our delight, they have carried on the traditions established by their ancestors, producing a true, classic Cheverny that is both simple and elegant. Unlike others in the appellation who still vinify the widely-planted and forgettable Romorantin varietal, the Delaille brothers have focused their attention on growing fresh, lively Sauvignon Blanc, deeply rooted in the sand, clay, and limestone plains of northeastern Touraine. Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Cot constitute their red grape holdings, creating youthful reds with great aromatics. Gilbert and his sons have also made their own contributions to the heritage of the domaine, including the introduction of sustainable farming practices into the vineyards, as well as temperature-controlled vinification equipment to the winery.Until finally achieving A.O.C. status in 1993, Cheverny was widely regarded as one of the best V.D.Q.S. (Vin de Qualité Superieur) of the Loire. However, some argue that this A.O.C.-in-waiting designation was a political maneuver by the I.N.A.O. to keep Cheverny’s delicious, sprightly Sauvignon Blanc out of competition with the other more famous appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Kermit was the first to discover the charm and value of Cheverny back in 1978 when he imported the Domaine Jean Gueritte. He took on the Cheverny of Domaine du Salvard in 1992, a year before the status change in the appellation. We continue to tout the domaine’s wine as one of the greatest values for Sauvignon Blanc perfection.
Manni Nössing
Alto Adige—or Südtirol, as it is also known—does not seem Italian. The street names are primarily German, you are more likely to come across sausage and sauerkraut on a menu than tomatoes and basil, and your phone calls are more likely to be answered by an assertive “Hallo?” than a melodic “Pronto!” It is here in Bressanone (a.k.a. Brixen), less than twenty miles south of the Austrian border, that Manni Nössing runs his small winery amid the towering peaks of the Dolomites. Manni’s vineyards benefit from the mountain climate and steep slopes of glacial deposit that make up the Valle Isarco, the narrow valley to the northeast of Bolzano that is known for its fresh, aromatic whites.Descended from a family of farmers, Manni has no formal training in viticulture or enology but seeks to learn from each vintage in order to produce wines that are capable of giving pleasure while also reflecting the terroir from which they originate. In 2000, he made the decision to start bottling his own wine instead of selling to a nearby co-op. Since then, he has increased his holdings to 5 hectares, all hillside vineyards at altitudes of 650 to 800 meters, planted to Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Sylvaner, and Gewürztraminer. Kerner, a cross between Riesling and Schiava (a local red grape), represents half of his production and perfectly exemplifies the house style of precision, freshness, class, and minerality. While the climate in Alto Adige is certainly a colder one with snowy winters, Manni finds that due to his vines’ southern exposure and the region’s hot summers, the sun is enemy number one. “I want my wines to be drinkable,” he explains. With the belief that good acidity is the key to refreshing, balanced wines, he has recently stopped green harvesting and de-leafing his vines. “My grapes are happy in the shade,” he elaborated. “They are unhappy sitting in the sun all day”.
Manni’s desire to respect the land and emphasize terroir also applies to his choices in the cellar. All wines are vinified in stainless steel tanks to preserve the grapes’ delicate aromas, though 50% of the Veltliner sees a passage in neutral acacia barrels. After eight months on the lees during which the wines pick up additional richness and texture, they are ready to be bottled. The result is a range of wines that are a joy to drink while also exhibiting exceptional finesse and complexity, perfectly showcasing Manni’s passion for his land and the region’s pristine Alpine beauty. We are proud to welcome him on board as our first ever import from Italy’s northernmost province.
André Perret
When André Perret was growing up in Chavanay, in the northern Rhône Valley, most of the land there was planted to orchards, including the bulk of the family’s own small estate. Their roots were in Burgundy, though, where André’s forefathers owned and worked vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet until World War II forced them to relocate. As a young man André studied biology and took a job as a cancer researcher, but he felt cooped up in the laboratory and dreamt of a life outdoors. In 1982, after completing a degree in viticulture and enology, he returned to his hometown and started out with a few small rows of vines that had belonged to his uncle. At that time there were just two other vignerons in Chavanay and the region was in decline, but he believed profoundly in the value of the local terroirs and worked hard to valorize the area, becoming president of the department’s association of young agriculturalists and establishing programs that would encourage people to settle down and plant vineyards there. He also worked tirelessly to develop his own estate, expanding production by renting vineyards and replanting the family lands to vines. Today he is proud to be surrounded by dynamic, passionate young vignerons and to see that most of his neighbors’ children are eager to take over the family estates as they grow up.Perret’s approach to winegrowing is classic: respect each individual terroir—he produces several single-vineyard wines—and work the soil to avoid the need for chemical treatments. His goal is to make fresh, structured wines, in “a sort of Burgundian style” as he says, but without too much wood; wines that aren’t too worked over and will age well. His Condrieu bottlings are reference points for the entire appellation. In 1995 André built a new cellar, but he has never expanded beyond the very best terroirs and keeps the estate small so he can maintain his standards of manual labor in the vineyards and individual attention to all of his wines.
Bernard Faurie
Bernard Faurie is the wise old man of the hill (the hill of Hermitage that is), the last of the Mohicans I’d say. Let’s start with the vines. Bernard is the fifth generation in a storied lineage working the same vines on the hill (yes, the very same, they are over 100 years old). He still manages the family apricot groves as well, and man can he grow a mean Bergeron. But nowhere is Bernard more at home, more himself, and more downright giddy than in his vines on the Hermitage hill. He is still going strong in his mid-sixties, and does everything by hand (or foot at crush time) himself.Bernard’s parcels are spread among three principal parcels of Hermitage: Bessards, Méal, and Gréffieux. Bessards and Méal are among the most storied portions of the hill, making some of the longest-lived wines. Bernard subscribes to the philosophy that Hermitage is not really Hermitage unless it contains fruit from Bessards, the granite bedrock stronghold on the western edge of the hill. His two principal cuvées are red Hermitages in two different blends: Gréffieux/Bessards and Bessards/Méal. Occasionally, despite his predilection, he’ll bottle a barrel of pure Méal. He also produces a miniscule quantity of Hermitage Blanc, an absolutely mesmerizing example from the lower slopes of Bessards that is wiry, stony, and coiled for many years of unfurling.
Bernard’s wine has renewed a deep sense of understanding for us about what Hermitage really is, and what makes it special. It is Syrah, of course, among the world’s best. It is grown on a granite hillside, like Cornas and much of Saint-Joseph. But there is majesty to it, a nobility that you don’t find anywhere else. It is powerful yet fine. The power is in its intensity and depth, not in concentration or obvious flair. There is no rusticity. The finesse of the tannins, and of course its ability to age consistently and gracefully, are other trademarks. It is nice to be reminded of how great this storied terroir can be in the hands of a master vigneron.
Clos Lalfert
The wine bug first bit the young and ambitious Baptiste Lalfert when he tasted a bottle of 1974 Château Suduiraut at a family reunion. Though Baptiste does not come from a winegrowing family as most young vignerons do in France, he boldly set about creating his own path. After finishing a degree in Enology in 2006, he went to Burgundy to Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot to pursue his apprenticeship—a defining region and relationship that has helped shape Baptiste’s career. In 2007, upon hearing about a vineyard of old-vines Carignan and Cinsault that was destined to be destroyed in southern France, he returned to his native Languedoc determined to harness the vineyard’s great potential. Suddenly, Baptiste found himself a farmer of just over one hectare of land without any cellar space or equipment with which to work. Slowly but surely, he has found cellar space to rent, equipment to borrow, and a community in which he can spread his wings. True grit and raw optimism have launched this gifted young garagiste into France’s final winegrowing frontier.Baptiste’s vineyard is situated in La Boissière, twenty-five kilometers northwest of Montpellier, at the foothills of the Cevennes Mountains. This climate here is optimal, where cool mountain air prevents heat spikes that are often typical in this drier Mediterranean region. This type of climate also serves in creating balance in the wines—it facilitates a slow ripening of the grapes (essential for phenolic development) and translates into bright acidity. Finding equilibrium is the essence of Baptiste’s philosophy. As one of the newest additions to the KLWM portfolio, we are confident in his potential, and if his most recent vintage is any indication, we see a bright future for this passionate newcomer.
Éric Chevalier
Éric Chevalier is a rising star in the Nantais of the Loire Valley. For ten years, he sourced fruit for a large négociant in the Touraine. In 2005, he decided to return to his hometown of Saint-Philbert de Grandlieu, just southwest of Nantes, and ended up taking over the family domaine, Domaine de l’Aujardière, the next year. His father, a talented vigneron who did not bottle much of his wines and was well-known as a high-quality source of bulk wine, had stopped working the vineyards and the vines were either going to have to be pulled up and replanted, or sold. Éric was anything but enthusiastic. Little by little his passion grew, and today he is proud to be the fourth generation to farm the domaine. He is also proud to be bottling more and more of the family’s production himself. Éric sustainably farms twenty-five hectares of vines, producing wines of great character and finesse. He found his future in his family’s past.The Nantais is a maritime climate, and the vineyards are not far from the Atlantic Ocean. Consequently, there is an interesting variety of sedimentary, igneous, and metamorphic rocks, as this area once was ocean floor. Of the twenty-five hectares he farms, a large percentage of his production is dedicated to the production of Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu, mostly from old vines in the superb lieu-dit of La Butte). The soils here are comprised primarily of serpentinite and quartz, with the exception of his ancient granite parcel known as La Noë. The other half of his crop (Chardonnay, Fié Gris, and Pinot Noir, among others) goes towards the production of Vin de Pays du Val du Loire, and the soils are rich in granite, sand, and silt. Of these “country” wines, the most notable is Éric’s Fié Gris. This grape, pulled out of vineyards for many years to be replaced with the more profitable Sauvignon Blanc, is indigenous to the Loire. Also known as Sauvignon Rose or Sauvignon Gris, Éric’s vines are one of the few remaining strongholds of this elegant and luscious varietal. It makes an impression, with almost an Alsatian exoticism.
From the Blog
International Women’s Day: Celebrating Women in Wine
by Katya Karagadayeva and Anthony Lynch
Growing up in the Soviet Union, International Women’s Day was a lovely holiday, a day when I got to stay home and receive gifts. Traditionally, men (or boys) honor their mothers, wives, girlfriends, and female colleagues and schoolmates, with flowers and small gifts. Nowadays, I appreciate IWD not merely as a sweet tribute to these memories, but as an opportunity to celebrate and be inspired by women and their achievements.
At Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant we’ve been very fortunate to work with many extraordinary, talented women. We would love to give them flowers today, but a better way to pay respect would be to tell you a little more about them. Spotlighting three “women in wine” is Anthony Lynch:
No celebration of women in wine would be complete without mentioning Lulu Peyraud. While her late husband Lucien is undeniably the face behind the wines of Tempier—and to a certain extent, the Bandol appellation itself—Lulu’s role at the domaine over the decades has proven to be of equal significance. Known for her delectable renditions of classic Provençal dishes, the ever-so-sprightly Lulu—now 96 years old—will always come to symbolize the joyous, welcoming spirit that is synonymous with Domaine Tempier. The legendary banquets she organized will be remembered by many a lucky guest at the Domaine, but it is Lulu’s open-armed generosity and contagious laughter that truly make this wonderful Marseillaise the First Lady of Bandol.
© Gail Skoff
Our next featured wine woman hails not from Provence but another fabled, picturesque wine country: Tuscany, home of the grand Brunello di Montalcino. At the Castello di Argiano, Elisa Sesti has taken after her father Giuseppe and is now responsible for managing the winemaking at the estate in addition to sales and marketing. While it remains a family effort, Elisa represents the driving force behind production as well as promotion of the brand via travel throughout Italy and abroad. Somehow, she still finds time to entertain guests at the estate, and can often be found sharing a bottle of crisp Sangiovese rosato with friends over an antipasto featuring ingredients cultivated in the Sesti garden. It is only logical that we raise a glass to this warm and caring woman to celebrate not just her role in the wine world, but also as a wonderful individual.
Elisa may be an exception to the rule in the wine world, as the vigneron profession is one still largely dominated by men. Nonetheless, more and more women can be found working the vineyards and running the cellars as of late. In the hills north of Venice, Cinzia Sommariva has taken charge of her family’s 35 hectares of Glera (the grape variety used in Prosecco), and the results speak for themselves. Her visionary leadership and flawless execution give a Prosecco of real class and character. Cinzia herself, consistently displaying confidence and assertive demeanor with no lack of charm, is the ideal spokesperson for this most elegant and uplifting of libations.
Growing up in the Soviet Union, International Women’s Day was a lovely holiday, a day when I got to stay home and receive gifts. Traditionally, men (or boys) honor their mothers, wives, girlfriends, and female colleagues and schoolmates, with flowers and small gifts. Nowadays, I appreciate IWD not merely as a sweet tribute to these memories, but as an opportunity to celebrate and be inspired by women and their achievements.
At Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant we’ve been very fortunate to work with many extraordinary, talented women. We would love to give them flowers today, but a better way to pay respect would be to tell you a little more about them. Spotlighting three “women in wine” is Anthony Lynch:
No celebration of women in wine would be complete without mentioning Lulu Peyraud. While her late husband Lucien is undeniably the face behind the wines of Tempier—and to a certain extent, the Bandol appellation itself—Lulu’s role at the domaine over the decades has proven to be of equal significance. Known for her delectable renditions of classic Provençal dishes, the ever-so-sprightly Lulu—now 96 years old—will always come to symbolize the joyous, welcoming spirit that is synonymous with Domaine Tempier. The legendary banquets she organized will be remembered by many a lucky guest at the Domaine, but it is Lulu’s open-armed generosity and contagious laughter that truly make this wonderful Marseillaise the First Lady of Bandol.
© Gail Skoff
Our next featured wine woman hails not from Provence but another fabled, picturesque wine country: Tuscany, home of the grand Brunello di Montalcino. At the Castello di Argiano, Elisa Sesti has taken after her father Giuseppe and is now responsible for managing the winemaking at the estate in addition to sales and marketing. While it remains a family effort, Elisa represents the driving force behind production as well as promotion of the brand via travel throughout Italy and abroad. Somehow, she still finds time to entertain guests at the estate, and can often be found sharing a bottle of crisp Sangiovese rosato with friends over an antipasto featuring ingredients cultivated in the Sesti garden. It is only logical that we raise a glass to this warm and caring woman to celebrate not just her role in the wine world, but also as a wonderful individual.
Elisa may be an exception to the rule in the wine world, as the vigneron profession is one still largely dominated by men. Nonetheless, more and more women can be found working the vineyards and running the cellars as of late. In the hills north of Venice, Cinzia Sommariva has taken charge of her family’s 35 hectares of Glera (the grape variety used in Prosecco), and the results speak for themselves. Her visionary leadership and flawless execution give a Prosecco of real class and character. Cinzia herself, consistently displaying confidence and assertive demeanor with no lack of charm, is the ideal spokesperson for this most elegant and uplifting of libations.