Featured Producer
Domaine Bizot
Jean-Yves Bizot is a rare find in Burgundy these days, and we are proud to represent him exclusively in the United States. His strict and uncompromising standards in the vineyards and his enviable old–vine parcels in Vosne-Romanée combine to give us a stellar lineup of miniscule production red Burgundies built for the long haul. Bizot is a professor of viticulture and oenology in Beaune who lives in Vosne across the street from Henri Jayer’s old residence. The two vignerons had neighboring parcels in Vosne and used to discuss vinfication from time to time while working their vines. Bizot decided to adapt some of Jayer’s techniques in his own cellar (in particular whole cluster fermentation at cool temperatures in conical wooden vats) and is now making top-notch Vosne that still flies mostly under the radar. Nowadays, Bizot downplays the influence of Jayer in his winemaking and has forged his own distinct and rigorous philosophy in the vines and the cellar.Bizot’s wines need time to open up and reveal their character. Even the village A.O.C. Vosne- Romanée will use about five years of aging to great advantage. All of his Vosne-Romanées require the patience of a premier cru.
Bizot recently made some exciting purchases in the far north of the Côtes-de-Nuits, terroirs that he believes are under-appreciated by the current generation but were very well known and highly regarded centuries ago–both vineyards are just south of Dijon: Bourgogne “Le Chapitre” and Marsannay “Clos du Roy”, and both are old-vine parcels. His range is completed by his magnificent Bourgogne Blanc that comes from an old parcel of sélection massale Chardonnay right next to Clos de Vougeot. Bizot’s wines, bottled by hand, barrel by barrel, without filtration, are serious Burgundies for the patient connoisseur, emphasizing purity, subtlety and elegance.
Riofavara
One of the newest additions to our portfolio is Kermit’s first Sicilian producer: the Riofavara estate, which is on the southern tip of this legendary island. The Padova family has tended vines here for almost a century, but only in 1993 did they begin bottling their own wine. Just a few years later, Massimo Padova took over the estate along with his sister Marianta, their cousin Antonella, and Massimo’s wife, Margherita. This energetic young team has worked tirelessly over the last dozen years to build a new winery and hone production techniques, resulting in an impeccable expression of the land they prize so highly.The philosophy at Riofavara revolves around two central concepts: Sicilian typicity and the environment. Before rejoining his father at the estate, Massimo executed a careful study of the region’s wineries, zeroing in on the most talented and meticulous producers and determining what vineyard qualities and production methods were the keys to their success. Armed with his findings and reassured that their own land was among the region’s best terroirs, he ensured that every possible measure was taken to hone the quality of their wines. The family is so fervently dedicated to organic production that a few years ago they deemed the official Italian certifying agency too lax and “fired” them, establishing their own stringent standards that demand quality in the finished wine as well as environmentally friendly practices during production. Today they are happy to provide proof of their organic status from a small group called ASCA, which they find more rigorous in their inspections.
Riofavara is located in the Noto Valley, just a few minutes down the road from the town that gave Nero d’Avola its name, and was the first producer to dignify this grape with the use of its own indigenous yeasts. Though the area’s image still suffers in some circles from the historic production of high-alcohol wines that were good only to boost thin wines from the mainland, estates like Riofavara have completely reversed this trend, eliciting vivacious, mineral wines from the zone’s rocky limestone and marl terrains.
Ermitage du Pic Saint Loup
Legends seem to converge at the Ermitage du Pic St-Loup. The hermitage dates back from the Middle Ages, as the former home of the bishops of Maguelone. The limestone peak or “pic” perched above the vineyards was named for the legendary Saint Thieri Loup, one of three pious, crusading, brothers and suitors to the beautiful Bertrade—after her untimely death, Loup became a hermit. In 1992, the Ravaille brothers (Xavier, Pierre, and Jean-Marc) joined forces to plant a vineyard in what has traditionally been land dominated by sheep farming and cheese production. The Ravaille family has been in the Languedoc for over one thousand years, long enough to have known Saint Loup personally. These brothers have been on a noble quest of their own to create serious wine that expresses the complexity of their terroir. The three fish on the label’s emblem therefore not only evoke the story of Saint Loup, but also their fraternal collaboration. Within the first few years, the Ravailles came to the conclusion that introducing biodynamic farming practices would allow them to make the wine they wanted. Though they have been using this methodology since 1999, as of 2012 vintage they are certified organic.According to James E. Wilson, in his fabulous book, Terroir, the complexity and variety of soil types in the Languedoc is attributed to the geological phenomenon known as the “Languedoc-Roussillon Symphony.” This slowly evolving collision of continents and bodies of water has perpetrated upheaval, creasing, and erosion, leaving a medley of sedimentation. Soils from the Ravaille’s higher-altitude vineyard slopes vary between the dominant marly limestone and dolomite, to red and white clay, to sand, schist, and round galets. The microclimate in Pic St. Loup is also particularly unique in this otherwise dry region. Though the summers are typically very dry, cool nights and winter rainfall allow for long ripening of the grapes and sufficient water supply. The brothers keep their vinification as non-interventionist as possible. All of these special elements of their philosophy and methodology translate into wines with a purity of fruit, extraordinary delineation of layers, and a distinct sense of place.
Their personal wine cellar is filled with masterly bottles from the likes of Coche-Dury, Raveneau, Tempier, among other gems. They aim high.
Château La Roque
The picturesque landscape surrounding the historic Château La Roque appears largely unchanged from how it must have been two thousand years ago. Ownership has changed hands many times since the Romans were first here, yet the soul of this special place remains in tact. Romans were said to have planted the first vines, and Benedictine Monks created the sturdy vaulted-ceiling cellars that still house the bottles today. Winegrowing resumed in the thirteenth century when the de la Roque brothers planted new vines. By the 15th century, another branch of the de la Roque family added glass blowing to the farm’s production. Today, Château La Roque is in the capable hands of Jacques Figuette, who has continued to convert to organic and now biodynamic viticulture, as planned by the previous owner and Languedoc legend, Jack Boutin. Jacques is guided by the talented Cyriaque Rozier, who makes the wine both here and at Château Fontanès. Though the property has responded to circumstance, its destiny seems irrevocably intertwined with its vines.Thirty-two of the Château’s eighty hectares are consecrated to terraced vineyard land with south-southeast sun exposure, on clay and limestone soils. This is unique terroir. Garrique, the aromatic scrub brush that dominates the landscapes of the South, asserts its presence among these vines. Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre, the noble varietals that Jack Boutin planted here years ago, make up the reds. The whites include Viognier, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Marsanne. In the wise words of KLWM salesperson and legend, Michael Butler, “Lay down a few cases of history.”
Régis Bouvier
Régis Bouvier in Marsannay achieves a rare hat trick in Burgundy, the mastering of all three colors–red, white and rosé, through reasonable yields and high quality terroirs. Bouvier makes the best Burgundian rosé that we have ever tasted, his whites are delicious, with their own particular character completely unlike other Chardonnays from Burgundy, and his reds are his crowning achievement, managing to be wild and exciting while refined and elegant at the same time.Bouvier’s vineyards in Marsannay are premier-cru quality (some may even get classified) and his lieu-dit Bourgogne Rouge En Montre Cul vineyard is of a quality well above most (cultivated on a steep slope, not flatland Bourgogne). And don’t miss his Morey-St-Denis En la Rue de Vergy, a superb vineyard right above the Grand Cru Clos de Tart. This domaine represents terrific value for a number of reasons–a lesser-known appellation combined with quality vineyard holdings and a conscientious and talented wine grower.
Domaine Diochon
At the foot of the rolling vineyards of Moulin-à-Vent, just across the road from its famous namesake windmill, Domaine Diochon has been making Beaujolais the old-fashioned way since 1935. Bernard Diochon, the beloved, mustachioed character immortalized by photographer Gail Skoff, succeeded his father in 1967. As a torch bearer to the ancestral methods passed down to him, Bernard explains,I like tannic wines without heaviness; with fruit and floral aromas. I don’t like weighty wines with hard tannins. My favorite wines are St Emilion from Bordeaux, and Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-St-Georges from Burgundy. Every vigneron naturally chooses to make wines in the style they prefer. It works well that Kermit and I share the same taste; it’s what has allowed our relationship to last for so long.
Picking when the grapes are perfectly mature, traditional whole cluster fermentations, aging in large old oak foudres, and bottling unfiltered in the springtime have characterized the house style.
According to Bernard, one of the most unique qualities of the domaine is the quality of the soil that they farm. Crumbly granite allows the vines to plunge easily towards “gore” subsoil, which feeds the vines, while adding a pronounced mineral component to the wine. (James E. Wilson, author of Terroir, explains gore to be an accumulated mass of sand and thin clay deposits with weathered feldspars, mica, and quartz.) Given the old age of his vines, anywhere between forty and one hundred years old, yields are naturally small. These are wines that are easy to enjoy in their youth but can handle years of cellar aging with great ease.
In 2007, Bernard wanted to retire but had no heirs. He appointed Thomas Patenôtre as his heir apparent, which has turned out to be an easy transition. We are grateful that the Diochon tradition continues through Thomas, safeguarding the ancestral methods that distinguish real Beaujolais from the mass-produced and highly over-commercialized juice that floods the market today.
Domaine Arnaud Ente
That Arnaud Ente is not a household name in Burgundy is more a reflection of his tireless dedication to his métier than of the quality of his wines. For the Entes, it’s not about pursuing the spotlight, although he is unquestionably a rising star in the region. Arnaud and his wife, Marie-Odile, work primarily on their own to craft an exquisite range of micro-production white Burgundies from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Precision, purity, elegance, and finesse are the best descriptors of the Ente style. Each vine is nurtured through every step of the yearly cycle, and each cru and village wine receives the exact same impeccable treatment; even the “entry-level” Aligoté and Bourgogne Blanc show the layered richness and complexity of a much more sophisticated appellation.Their neighbors joke that they aren’t sure how the Entes put food on the table when they observe such minuscule yields. Their most extensive holdings are in the En L’Ormeau clos, located just below the town center of Meursault, which possesses a deep, rich clay soil. They separate their vines here into three cuvées, Meursault A.O.C., “Clos des Ambres,” and “Sève du Clos,” based on the age of the vines and their relative position within the clos. Their holdings also include parcels in the premier crus Meursault La Goutte d’Or and Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts, as well as a small parcel in the enviably-positioned lieu-dit Les Petits Charrons on the slope behind the village. Once the grapes are in the cellar, there is only a restrained use of oak to add subtle structure and texture. Though somewhat under the radar, this modest maestro makes wines that can already compete with the best and just keep getting better with each new vintage. And in our opinion here at KLWM, the Ente’s meticulousness and passion have earned them a place in our “Never Stops Improving” category.
Mas Champart
Isabelle and Mathieu Champart were relatively new to winegrowing when they first took over Domaine Bramefan (as her family’s farm is also known), in Saint-Chinian, in 1976. Isabelle was a Parisian with a degree in Geography, while Mathieu came from a family of farmers in Champagne. For nearly twelve years they sold their grapes to the local cooperative. Though they waited until 1988 to bottle under their own label, they won almost instant acclaim, and have become the standard against which other producers in the appellation have been measured ever since. Mathieu tends to the vines, and Isabelle makes the wines—that their home is surrounded by their vineyards makes their division of labor all the more poetic. The Champarts have made significant changes to their business over the years. While the domaine started from just a simple, humble, stone farmhouse, they later added a winery and have expanded the holdings from eight to twenty-five hectares (sixteen of which are consecrated to vineyards, the remaining nine to arable crops and orchards). The terroir here is a patchwork of soils: steep slopes of clay and limestone (Mourvèdre), brightly colored marl (Carignan & Syrah), limestone (Syrah & Grenache) and lower slopes of clay and sandstone (Cabernet Franc). They live among their old vines on a gentle slope and have slowly started integrating more organic practices into their farming. Though the wines are easy to appreciate now for their inky complexity, they age extremely well and shine after some decanting.Kermit wants to add that Isabelle is also one of his favorite cooks. He always tries to land an eleven a.m. appointment on the off chance they will invite him to stay for lunch.
Villa di Geggiano
The brothers who run this estate boast a grand villa just outside Siena, a pope in the family, three last names, and some of the best Chianti Classico on the market today. Andrea and Alessandro Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli are the current proprietors of the Villa di Geggiano, a national monument that has been in their family since 1527; documents show that the family was already producing wine here and exporting it to Great Britain in 1725. Originally the family’s summer house, the villa still touts its 18th-century décor and furnishings, and the family is proud to tell of the famous guests who have graced these rooms. Today the estate covers twenty hectares, encompassing the formal outdoor theater that is still used in the summer, a tantalizing vegetable garden, and grounds that include about eight hectares of vineyards. Andrea generally handles the commercial side of the business while Alessandro prefers to stay in the vineyards and cellar, but both brothers are well versed in every aspect of the operation and make decisions jointly. Being especially concerned with the environmental aspect of their craft, they have always worked their vineyards organically, and the estate obtained official certification in 2006.Geggiano follows the classic tenet that wine resembles its maker: these are distinguished, classy cuvees that nevertheless show the distinct stamp of the terroir. This Chianti earns the title of Classico not just by meeting technical requirements but with its full personality, which shows the balance of bright fruit, a deep, leathery core, and vibrant acidity that is the region’s signature. The recurrent theme when Geggiano is mentioned at KLWM is food pairings (a high compliment coming from this crowd) because theirs are quintessential food wines and the perfect accompaniment to so many dishes, especially Tuscan ones, from grilled vegetables to wild boar ragù. When Kermit has the good fortune to stay for lunch, he comes back raving about it, which makes for some jealous smirks from the staff.
The Guest House at Villa di Geggiano
Domaine Costal
The Domaine Costal Chablis “Truffières” is a unique KLWM collaboration that stems from Kermit’s decades of experience in the region. This project led to the creation of Domaine Costal, the second label of the well-known Domaine Jean Collet, a family domaine since 1792. The project began with a simple barrel tasting with Kermit and led to a custom label, a new cuvée and custom vinification and bottling process exclusively for the American market. The end result was a great new terroir-driven white Burgundy for our customers.The Chablis comes from a single vineyard site called Truffières, or truffles. We decided to use the name of the parcel on the label, which had never been done by the domaine in the past. The parcel has been worked organically for many years. Kermit and the Collet family together agree on a blend of stainless steel, foudre, and barrel vinifications. Our bottling is not filtered or cold-stabilized—a true rarity in Chablis. The skill of the Collets and the excellent terroir of Truffières combine to give us a wine of extraordinary purity and finesse. There is no mistaking it—one taste and you are in Chablis territory: zesty minerality, wet stone, freshness and nervosity. And is that a hint of black truffle in the bouquet? Tasting the recent vintages that have resulted from this collaboration, we all noticed an “elusive” suggestion of divine black truffles. Maybe that is why the vineyard parcel has been called “Truffières” for so long.
From the Blog
July Newsletter: Staff Selections, Domaine Tempier P-A, New Arrivals from Corsica
The July newsletter is now available. Click here to download the pdf. Highlights from this month’s newsletter...
PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER
2012 DOMAINE TEMPIER
by Kermit Lynch
Today was my first visit of the year to Domaine Tempier. Down in the cellar, Daniel Ravier pulled tastes of the 2012 from their foudres, because they are not yet in bottle. Meeting the 2012s was like meeting an old friend—their 1979, to be specific, which made good drinking from the start. I recall the 1979 served cool in carafes for a bouillabaisse feast during the wine’s first summer. It was good right after the bottling, too, and at least in magnums, it is still good today at thirty-five years old. Not bad! Our 2012 is also a medium-bodied vintage, generously flavored, a real charmer. Even Cabassaou, which can be pretty tough and square-edged when young, is easy on the palate.
Then at 11:30 I met Lulu Peyraud for an apéritif—Lulu, who at ninety-six claims that she doesn’t drink water. At all. Never. She says she prefers red wine. I asked if she didn’t keep some Vittel or Evian hidden around the house to take a swig or two, you know, when no one is looking. And I wondered aloud, “Why, Lulu, why never a glass of water?”
“I don’t want to get rusty,” she said.
And as for the three 2012 cuvées spéciales, I’ll wait a few years before attacking them, but I’ll have several classiques for drinking cool during summer 2015.
per case
2012 Bandol “Classique”
$456.00
2012 Bandol “La Migoua”
660.00
2012 Bandol “La Tourtine”
660.00
2012 Bandol “Cabassaou”
984.00
2013 BANDOL ROSÉ IS HERE!
by Anthony Lynch
DOMAINE DE LA TOUR DU BON
First, you’ll notice the beautiful color of Agnès Henry’s 2013: it conveys the depth of flavor to be found in this excellent dry rosé. Very elegant, with subtle accents of garrigue, it is also our most affordable Bandol rosé at this time.
$30.00 per bottle $324.00 per case
DOMAINE DU GROS ‘NORÉ
Alain Pascal’s rosé seems to inevitably top last year’s version. While he is best known for his big, rustic, macho reds, his wines—in all colors—have recently begun to show an increased sense of finesse. In fact, his rosé in 2013 is notably delicate, quite the opposite of what one might expect given the wild, beastly reds he has produced in vintages past. It is lively and fresh, expressing not bananas but all those Provençal flavors that drive us bananas.
$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case
DOMAINE TEMPIER
They say great wine is evocative of place. With Tempier rosé, all it takes is one sniff to be carried back to Provence, conceiving a dreamy fantasy of sunshine and ice-cold pink wine. Suddenly we are in the shade of a massive umbrella pine tree at Domaine Tempier, refreshed by a soothing breeze and generous sips of rosé. The cigales chirp buzzingly in the background, while the sound of laughter complements their constant hum. Your glass of Bandol, evocative of rosemary, ripe peaches, and citrus, is the perfect elixir to wash down the assortment of snacks that has spontaneously materialized: garlic-rubbed toasts with cured anchovies, olives marinated in herb-infused oil, and slices of salty saucisson. This is what Tempier rosé is all about—celebration, gaiety, and delicious simplicity.
$40.00 per bottle $432.00 per case
The Mediterranean at Cassis © Gail Skoff
PRE-ARRIVAL OFFER
2012 DOMAINE TEMPIER
by Kermit Lynch
Today was my first visit of the year to Domaine Tempier. Down in the cellar, Daniel Ravier pulled tastes of the 2012 from their foudres, because they are not yet in bottle. Meeting the 2012s was like meeting an old friend—their 1979, to be specific, which made good drinking from the start. I recall the 1979 served cool in carafes for a bouillabaisse feast during the wine’s first summer. It was good right after the bottling, too, and at least in magnums, it is still good today at thirty-five years old. Not bad! Our 2012 is also a medium-bodied vintage, generously flavored, a real charmer. Even Cabassaou, which can be pretty tough and square-edged when young, is easy on the palate.
Then at 11:30 I met Lulu Peyraud for an apéritif—Lulu, who at ninety-six claims that she doesn’t drink water. At all. Never. She says she prefers red wine. I asked if she didn’t keep some Vittel or Evian hidden around the house to take a swig or two, you know, when no one is looking. And I wondered aloud, “Why, Lulu, why never a glass of water?”
“I don’t want to get rusty,” she said.
And as for the three 2012 cuvées spéciales, I’ll wait a few years before attacking them, but I’ll have several classiques for drinking cool during summer 2015.
per case
2012 Bandol “Classique”
$456.00
2012 Bandol “La Migoua”
660.00
2012 Bandol “La Tourtine”
660.00
2012 Bandol “Cabassaou”
984.00
2013 BANDOL ROSÉ IS HERE!
by Anthony Lynch
DOMAINE DE LA TOUR DU BON
First, you’ll notice the beautiful color of Agnès Henry’s 2013: it conveys the depth of flavor to be found in this excellent dry rosé. Very elegant, with subtle accents of garrigue, it is also our most affordable Bandol rosé at this time.
$30.00 per bottle $324.00 per case
DOMAINE DU GROS ‘NORÉ
Alain Pascal’s rosé seems to inevitably top last year’s version. While he is best known for his big, rustic, macho reds, his wines—in all colors—have recently begun to show an increased sense of finesse. In fact, his rosé in 2013 is notably delicate, quite the opposite of what one might expect given the wild, beastly reds he has produced in vintages past. It is lively and fresh, expressing not bananas but all those Provençal flavors that drive us bananas.
$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case
DOMAINE TEMPIER
They say great wine is evocative of place. With Tempier rosé, all it takes is one sniff to be carried back to Provence, conceiving a dreamy fantasy of sunshine and ice-cold pink wine. Suddenly we are in the shade of a massive umbrella pine tree at Domaine Tempier, refreshed by a soothing breeze and generous sips of rosé. The cigales chirp buzzingly in the background, while the sound of laughter complements their constant hum. Your glass of Bandol, evocative of rosemary, ripe peaches, and citrus, is the perfect elixir to wash down the assortment of snacks that has spontaneously materialized: garlic-rubbed toasts with cured anchovies, olives marinated in herb-infused oil, and slices of salty saucisson. This is what Tempier rosé is all about—celebration, gaiety, and delicious simplicity.
$40.00 per bottle $432.00 per case
The Mediterranean at Cassis © Gail Skoff