Featured Producer
Domaine Léon Barral
After founding the domaine in 1993, which he named after his grandfather, Didier Barral decided fairly quickly that biodynamic practices were the best choice for farming his vineyards. Deep in the heart of the Languedoc, in the Faugères appellation just outside the hamlet of Lenthéric, Domaine Léon Barral is a beacon of revolutionary winegrowing. Didier farms thirty hectares of vineyards, and this is no small feat. Incorporating biodynamic practices into a vineyard means working the soil rigorously, and with so much land to farm, it is fortunate that he has so much help. His workers of choice? A team of twenty cows, horses, and pigs that graze the cover crops in and around the vineyards. The simple act of grazing cultivates healthy microbiotic activity in the soil, bringing mushrooms, ants, ladybugs, earthworms, and other essential life forms, which add important nutrients while aerating the soil. This is the concept of sustainability at its finest, where the ecosystem creates interdependence between the animals and the vineyards.The grapes benefit the most from this environment, which ultimately translates to tremendously powerful, complex, and age-worthy wines. Most of Didier’s vines get full southern sun exposure. In this Mediterranean climate where summer heat waves and drought are constant during the growing season, pruning in the gobelet style shelters the grapes from the blistering sun. Most of his vines are very old, but vary up to ninety years of age, keeping yields naturally low. Once in the cellar, Didier’s harvest is cared for with the same zeal, although he would consider the wine all but finished once it leaves the vineyard. This level of artisanry was once nearly extinct had it not been for Didier and the profound influence he is having over other viticulteurs who now see how his work ethic and ideology translates to results.
Château de Trinquevedel
Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm the beautiful vineyards of Château de Trinquevedel. His great-grandfather, Eugène, bought the eighteenth-century château in 1936—an opportune decision that coincided with the establishment of Tavel’s A.O.C that same year. However timely, the vineyards were in terrible disrepair, and Eugène had an enormous task ahead. By 1960, the grapes were finally producing wine worthy of the Demoulin’s own bottlings, and the château had at last been restored to its former glory. Louis XIV was among the first to sing the praises of Tavel’s delicious and memorable rosés, which only stands to reason given the appellation’s grand cru reputation today. Tavel is the only A.O.C. entirely made up of rosé, which prohibits any whites or reds from wearing the label of this Southern Rhône cru. No more than sixty percent of the final blend can be made up of the noble Grenache. In other appellations where rosé is made, it is often regarded as an afterthought— most of the grapes are frequently sourced from lesser parcels, as the lighter maceration of the grapes is seen as “wasting” precious juice. In Tavel, even the best parcels may contribute to the blend, yet another aspect that makes this cru so special.Guillaume, with the help of his wife, Céline, farms thirty-two hectares of vines that are situated in the hills of the Montagne Noire (Black Mountain). Their stony vineyards resemble those of the famous Châteauneuf, comprised of sand and quartzite galets roulés (rounded stones). The climate and sun exposure produce grapes with tremendous concentration and power. To counteract this power and higher alcohols that are typical of the appellation, the Demoulins perform a bleeding off of the free-run juices, followed by a light pressing, and a very balanced extraction. Guillaume believes in taking all measures necessary to preserve the natural pressing of the grapes. The rosés of Château de Trinquevedel consistently enjoy aromas of ripe, red berries with notes of the ubiquitous spicy, garrigue.
Domaine Colin-Deléger
As the nephew of the great Georges Deléger, Michel Colin inherited part of the Chevenottes vineyard, combining it with holdings from the Colin family’s domaine. Today, he is semi-retired. He cannot let go completely, thank goodness. He still farms a few, small parcels, three in fact: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. Though the quantities that we are able to buy of each every year are miniscule, it is always a pleasure to continue to be able to taste wines from a mature master vintner with some of Chardonnay’s greatest terroirs. All three vineyards are within a stone’s throw of one another, with En Remilly just around the corner on the south side of Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny Les Demoiselles on the northern edge of Le Montrachet.
Domaine Comte Abbatucci
In the colorful, picturesque city of Ajaccio, capital of Corsica, you can’t get very far without seeing the name Abbatucci. There are streets, monuments and plazas that carry the name, which is normal given that General Jean-Charles Abbatucci from Ajaccio was a hero of the French Revolution and comrade in arms of another local hero, Napoléon Bonaparte. Step into a wine bar or a restaurant there, chances are these days they’ll pour you a glass of Domaine Abbatucci. The domaine is run by Jean-Charles Abbatucci, a direct descendant of the General, who has now become a local hero of another kind—for providing the local populace with its most sought-after libation.Corsicans are proud defenders of their traditions and environment, and with Abbatucci they indulge guilt-free. His wines are certified biodynamic, and he believes in following even the most far-out biodynamic practices to the letter. On his large estate south of Ajaccio he keeps a pristine poly-culture ecosystem in place, complete with herds of sheep foraging through his vines, groves of olive trees on ancient terraces, and large swaths of untouched forests. His vines come from cuttings of indigenous grapes, sourced decades ago high up in the isolated and mountainous interior of the island from elderly peasant farmers, effectively saving several native varieties from extinction. To keep his vines happy, he’s known to drive his tractor out to his vineyards and play traditional Corsican polyphonic songs over loudspeakers for their benefit. After the harvest he’ll treat his cellar to the same music as his grapes ferment and come of age. All part of the terroir, he says. Does all this have an actual effect on the wine? Have a taste for yourself. The proof just might be in the pudding.
Fattoria Moretto
Domenico Altariva grew up watching his parents work the land; so when he married and bought a house with his new wife, Albertina, it was natural that he also bought a little land that he would tend in his spare time. A salesman by trade, he was also an avid oenophile, so he chose to plant vineyards from which he made wine for personal consumption. Domenico and Albertina slowly increased their wine production and turned their hobby into a full-time vocation, selling the wine in bulk to private clients. Right from the start they worked their vines with entirely natural products and made the most of their excellent vineyard sites. When their sons Fabio and Fausto joined the estate in 1991 the family took another step forward, building a new winery, acquiring another four hectares of vineyards, and finally bottling the wine themselves; and in 1997 their organic status became official. The vineyards of Fattoria Moretto are located in the heart of the hills of Castelvetro, near the famous town of Modena, where a silt and clay soil gives fresh, mineral wines. The Altarivas also choose to highlight the local grape Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro by vinifying it alone, resulting in an intense, terroir-driven Lambrusco with a nose serious enough for even the most knowledgeable wine connoisseur.
Cédric Vincent
As a young man, André Guillard wanted to become a vigneron, working the family domaine in the southern end of the Beaujolais, in the village of Pouilly-le-Monial. Since production was small, there were only enough resources for André’s father and brother to farm it. Accepting the situation as it stood, he became a baker, but his dream never died. At the ripe age of fifty, André was finally given his chance to be part of the domaine. His grandson, Cédric Vincent, was just a tot, but the two were quite close. Cédric’s parents were going through a divorce, but early memories of longing to join his grandfather in the vineyards brought the young Cédric solace. Today, after completing his advanced studies in enology, Cédric works side-by-side in the vineyards and the cellar with André, now in his late eighties. Cédric takes his role at the domaine seriously, while resuscitating ancestral tradition and his family’s legacy with great heart.Cédric farms in the Bas Beaujolais, located in between Villefranche-sur-Saône and Lyon. This lower half of the region is best known for producing the grapes for Beaujolais Nouveau. The annual release of the vintage’s first fermentations, though intended as much-beloved ritual, has devolved over the last thirty years into an industry of mass-marketed juice of questionable quality. The Bas Beaujolais is rich in clay, and while it makes a geological break with its granitic northern half (where many of the great crus are located), Cédric has used his native land to his advantage. Old vines and low yields are the keys to his success—two concepts deemed crazy by neighboring vignerons. Cédric is a garagiste in his full glory, with nothing but his vines, a dirt-floor garage, an old oak press, and oak casks with which to work. His wines enjoy an intensity and concentration that are rare even among many of the cru Beaujolais and represent all that is special in such a young talent. Cédric crafts a beautiful A.O.C. Beaujolais, and an outstanding Beaujolais Nouveau—a wine of such depth that it stands to change public perceptions about Nouveau. In the words of Dixon Brooke, “It’s what you get when you take a good village level terroir and work it as you would a grand cru.” And Kermit adds his two bits worth, “If you haven’t tasted Vincent’s, you don’t know how good an A.O.C. Beaujolais can be.”
Domaine Pierre Guillemot
Kermit says he has several great memories of visiting with the Guillemots, and his favorite happened about fifteen years ago when Robert Parker asked us to arrange a big tasting of our Burgundy selections. It took place in the cellar below our Beaune office, and Mr. Parker approved Kermit’s suggestion that we invite the winemakers to the tasting. The place was packed and there were over two hundred red and white Burgundies to taste. Pierre Guillemot was there with his big belly and bristly moustache. Everyone loved having him, because he wowed them with comparisons of certain wines with various characteristics of the male and female genders. Kermit noticed at some point in the morning that Pierre had quieted down. He looked over and saw that, as Pierre tasted, he did not avail himself of a spit bucket. Suddenly there was an “Alors, au revoir, à bientôt j’espère,” and up the stairs he went. Kermit followed and watched Pierre walk away, awfully close to a Charlie Chaplin pantomime of a drunken French vigneron weaving down the street, barely able to stand up.The Guillemot family has worked Savigny-lès-Beaune vines for eight generations (!) and produces wines with classic Burgundian finesse and balance, all while leaving us a reminder of Savigny’s rustic character. Guillemot is one of the quintessential KLWM producers, with wines that epitomize the local terroir and emphasize grace and elegance over power and structure. But do not be fooled into thinking that this means they lack aging potential; the Guillemots are very proud of their old wines and thankfully have the foresight to set aside a good supply and follow their wines’ development over the years. A recent tasting at the domaine included a 1989 and 1975 Savigny Blanc (that’s 35 years old, everyone!), as well as the ‘90, ‘88, ‘85, ‘82, ‘76, ’72, and ‘64 Rouge. There was not a single tired bottle in the bunch. We challenge anyone to find a better deal on Burgundies that are built to last like these!
Kermit Lynch Blends - Northern Rhône
Nearly forty years of doing business in France and Italy have given Kermit Lynch a level of expertise that few in the wine industry can boast. Countless hours with growers in some of the most famous vineyards and cellars of Europe have offered more than just a casual look at what it takes to be a great grower, let alone a great winemaker. Kermit Lynch was the first to champion the benefits of unfined and unfiltered wines, long before they had become fashionable. This belief is really a matter of taste, and the proof has always been in the glass, offering a purer expression of fruit and an unadulterated reflection of the terroir. Kermit’s conviction has been so strong over the years that he has been able to persuade even the most hard-headed vignerons to test his theories.Long-term relationships with vignerons in every major wine growing region offer a tremendous array of opportunities. Every year, Kermit enjoys a creative collaboration with some growers to find the best of their selections. Together, they work towards creating a final blend that showcases the region in all its glory at a price point that is difficult to match.
CÔTE RÔTIE CROZES-HERMITAGE HERMITAGE
Louis Barruol is an indefatigable force in the Rhône. He is the fourteenth generation in his family to be making wine in this sixteenth-century domaine in Gigondas. On what was once the site of a Roman villa, Louis’ cellars show spectacular remains of old, Roman vinification vats carved into the limestone. Here, Louis works with different grape varietals from the Rhône, vinifying each parcel separately. He has recently taken to acting as a micro-négociant, working closely with top growers in the northern part of the region who still work with Sérine, an ancient version of Syrah. Producing only a few precious barrels of each cuvée, Louis is helping to save the authenticity and the identity of many great old Côte Rôtie parcels, and now those of Hermitage and Crozes, by keeping them out of the hands of the large, corporate négociants in the area. Together, he and Kermit blend our Northern Rhône wines from a selection of Louis’ purchases. Louis selects the best parcels he can find, and then Kermit shows up and either has a cuvée bottled unfiltered, or he blends to find the assemblage that satisfies his esthetic criteria.
Château Haut-Lariveau
Bénédicte and Grégoire Hubau do not come from winemaking families, nor did they pursue studies in enology or viticulture. Both natives of northern France, Bénédicte was a computer specialist and Grégoire a chemist. Without much ado, they decided one day to leave it all behind and start a new life as vignerons. After visiting an endless line of available properties in various regions of France, they finally came across Château Moulin Pey-Labrie, an estate in Fronsac that met their requirement for a terroir de caractère. Unconcerned by their ignorance in the field of winegrowing but reassured by their experience as avid consumers, they purchased the property and dove head-first into their new adventure, counting on their employees to teach them as they worked. The young couple’s eagerness to learn earned them free advice from all their neighbors, and they drank in every word. It quickly became clear which approaches matched their own easygoing, natural philosophy, and before long they were deftly handling the vineyard and winery work on their own. The problem with many winegrowers, as they see it, is that they decide what a vine should have rather than giving it what it wants. Just as each of us has a unique style and prefers certain clothes or hairstyles, they learned that each vine needs individualized care in order to thrive. In 1990, having mastered their new craft, they purchased a second property, Château Haut-Lariveau. Château Moulin, though not a physical château, bottles wine from both Canon-Fronsac and Fronsac. The fruit for these “easy-drinking” wines is sourced from the lower-slope clay vineyards of either Château Moulin Pey-Labrie or Château Haut-Lariveau.Though their growing experience has only shown that their instincts were right from the start, the Hubaus have tweaked their methods over the years in order to bring the reality of their work more perfectly in line with their vision. Refusing to slacken their strict quality standards, they frequently design their own equipment, including one machine that works the earth from below. In the cellar they consider themselves observers, letting the character of the land express itself freely and encouraging the greatest possible elegance and finesse in all of their wines.
Domaine Gachot-Monot
The wines of Gachot-Monot represent some of the best values in the KLWM portfolio – not because they are the least expensive, but because they offer an outstanding price-to-quality ratio. Damien Gachot may work the vineyards of the lesser known Côtes de Nuits Villages appellation, but he works his vines as if they were premier cru fruit from Nuits-Saint-Georges. This fifth-generation vigneron and his Danish wife, Lise, farm twelve hectares in the village of Corgoloin, in between Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune. They first came to Kermit’s attention via a trusted source—the master of La Tâche himself, Aubert de Villaine—and it certainly doesn’t hurt that Damien also received an endorsement from his friend, Bertrand Chevillon, either. Ever-smiling and tireless in his work, Damien was first saluted by the Hospices de Beaune as a young talent to be watched. We have been proud to import his wine since the 2000 vintage.In the most competitive market for Pinot Noir in the world, it is not an easy feat making a wine taste better than the pedigree of its soil would allow. Damien’s genius is found in his ability to balance traditional philosophies in the vineyards and respect of terroir with more contemporary methodologies in the cellar. His style gracefully manages to achieve suppleness and approachability without sacrificing authenticity, typicity, or age-ability. Dixon Brooke writes,
Thanks to his efforts and dedication, we get a Côtes de Nuits Villages that tastes more like Nuits-St-Georges than village Burgundy. It is always deeply colored, highly aromatic, full and complex. Last year we had the 1978 vintage at a dinner with clients in Beaune, and it really turned some heads, not only among the clients but also with the local sommeliers! There were many fancier labels on the table from top names.
Kermit has built his own reputation over the years by finding values where no one else was looking. Dive in and experience great Burgundy without breaking the bank!
From the Blog
April Newsletter: 2012 Les Pallières P-A, Spring Sampler, We Flock to Faury, Meet the Winemaker
The April newsletter is now available.
Click here to download the pdf.
Highlights from this month’s newsletter...
SOUTHERN Class
by Clark Z. Terry
2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
In February we featured the pre-arrival of the 2012 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge, but now it is time to cast the spotlight on their Blanc, sourced from the same stone-laden vineyard as the Rouge, La Crau. And my, oh my, how those stones express themselves in the white. A hallmark of the Vieux Télégraphe style (and all the wines produced by the Bruniers, for that matter) is an underlying elegance. Even amid the stoniness, the rustic fruit lies on a bed of velvet texture and true finesse. The Vieux Télégraphe Blanc focuses on elegance and pure balance perhaps more than any of their other wines. It is light on the palate yet still has full weight and presence. It has a minerally structure, not unlike premier cru Burgundy, which is one of the reasons it has a reputation for aging ten or more years. But you’ll find great pleasure now in this wine, and any true fan of the Vieux Télégraphe would be remiss to pass by this opportunity. Availability is very limited.
$74.00 per bottle $799.20 per case
2008 Bandol “Saint Ferréol”
Domaine de la Tour du Bon
I wasn’t around on this earth when Kermit began travelling to Provence in the 1970s, developing his obsession with the region and the wines. That said, I’ve heard about it, read about it, and had the great fortune to taste many of the wines from that time. Back then, the wines of Bandol had a touch more funk than they do now. In general less is a good thing, but a little funk can go a long way in creating wines of intrigue and character. In Tour du Bon’s Saint Ferréol you’ll find that touch of funk and a whole lotta Mourvèdre, too. I might be naïve in saying this, but it strikes me that this wine is somewhat of a throwback to the wilder wines of Provence from a number of decades ago. For the old-timers out there, check this bottle out to relive the glory days of your early wine-buying experiences. For those with only recent Bandol experience, prepare to be transported back to a time and place that thankfully can still be found in bottles like this.
$62.00 per bottle $669.60 per case
LOIRE REDS: A POWERHOUSE TRIO
by Anthony Lynch
2011 CHINON “LA CROIX BOISSÉE” • BERNARD BAUDRY
Whoever said Loire reds are light wines, think again. From south-facing vineyards in limestone soils, Cabernet Franc can display impressive magnitude, attaining full ripeness and sporting a firm tannic backbone. La Croix Boissée, perhaps Baudry’s top cuvée, expresses the full inky potential of Chinon, along with the freshness to create a harmonious balance. This wine’s muscle, coupled with the quality of the 2011 vintage, suggests it will live a very long and prosperous life. It’ll get better and better, more and more of a bargain, with age.
$39.00 per bottle $421.20 per case
2011 CHINON “CLOS DE LA DIOTERIE”
CHARLES JOGUET
This legendary parcel holds honorary grand cru status among Chinon vineyards. What’s more, the Cabernet Franc vines here date back to the 1930s, giving low yields and a concentrated Chinon of real consequence. This wine’s powerful structure, marvelous texture, and overall grandeur make me dream of the possibilities at table. Some suggestions, taken from Joguet’s website: “tournedos rossini, beef short ribs, and even stronger game in great vintages: venison steak, wild boar stew.” Or take the easy way out: an old-fashioned chuck roast with carrots, onions, and potatoes.
$52.00 per bottle $561.60 per case
2010 BOURGUEIL “LES PERRIÈRES”
C. & P. BRETON
Crossing the Loire river from Chinon brings us to Bourgueil, where the dynamic and biodynamic duo Catherine and Pierre Breton have focused their red wine production. Les Perrières is the Bretons’ answer to Baudry’s Croix Boissée and Joguet’s Dioterie: old-vine Cabernet Franc planted on clay and limestone slopes, giving a full-bodied and extremely long-lived Bourgueil that warrants decanting to be appreciated in its youth. The 2010 Perrières highlights that vineyard’s terroir with its chalky minerality, giving it a chiseled edge to complement the savory depth and fleshy berry fruit.
$42.00 per bottle $453.60 per case
Click here to download the pdf.
Highlights from this month’s newsletter...
SOUTHERN Class
by Clark Z. Terry
2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
In February we featured the pre-arrival of the 2012 Vieux Télégraphe Rouge, but now it is time to cast the spotlight on their Blanc, sourced from the same stone-laden vineyard as the Rouge, La Crau. And my, oh my, how those stones express themselves in the white. A hallmark of the Vieux Télégraphe style (and all the wines produced by the Bruniers, for that matter) is an underlying elegance. Even amid the stoniness, the rustic fruit lies on a bed of velvet texture and true finesse. The Vieux Télégraphe Blanc focuses on elegance and pure balance perhaps more than any of their other wines. It is light on the palate yet still has full weight and presence. It has a minerally structure, not unlike premier cru Burgundy, which is one of the reasons it has a reputation for aging ten or more years. But you’ll find great pleasure now in this wine, and any true fan of the Vieux Télégraphe would be remiss to pass by this opportunity. Availability is very limited.
$74.00 per bottle $799.20 per case
2008 Bandol “Saint Ferréol”
Domaine de la Tour du Bon
I wasn’t around on this earth when Kermit began travelling to Provence in the 1970s, developing his obsession with the region and the wines. That said, I’ve heard about it, read about it, and had the great fortune to taste many of the wines from that time. Back then, the wines of Bandol had a touch more funk than they do now. In general less is a good thing, but a little funk can go a long way in creating wines of intrigue and character. In Tour du Bon’s Saint Ferréol you’ll find that touch of funk and a whole lotta Mourvèdre, too. I might be naïve in saying this, but it strikes me that this wine is somewhat of a throwback to the wilder wines of Provence from a number of decades ago. For the old-timers out there, check this bottle out to relive the glory days of your early wine-buying experiences. For those with only recent Bandol experience, prepare to be transported back to a time and place that thankfully can still be found in bottles like this.
$62.00 per bottle $669.60 per case
LOIRE REDS: A POWERHOUSE TRIO
by Anthony Lynch
2011 CHINON “LA CROIX BOISSÉE” • BERNARD BAUDRY
Whoever said Loire reds are light wines, think again. From south-facing vineyards in limestone soils, Cabernet Franc can display impressive magnitude, attaining full ripeness and sporting a firm tannic backbone. La Croix Boissée, perhaps Baudry’s top cuvée, expresses the full inky potential of Chinon, along with the freshness to create a harmonious balance. This wine’s muscle, coupled with the quality of the 2011 vintage, suggests it will live a very long and prosperous life. It’ll get better and better, more and more of a bargain, with age.
$39.00 per bottle $421.20 per case
2011 CHINON “CLOS DE LA DIOTERIE”
CHARLES JOGUET
This legendary parcel holds honorary grand cru status among Chinon vineyards. What’s more, the Cabernet Franc vines here date back to the 1930s, giving low yields and a concentrated Chinon of real consequence. This wine’s powerful structure, marvelous texture, and overall grandeur make me dream of the possibilities at table. Some suggestions, taken from Joguet’s website: “tournedos rossini, beef short ribs, and even stronger game in great vintages: venison steak, wild boar stew.” Or take the easy way out: an old-fashioned chuck roast with carrots, onions, and potatoes.
$52.00 per bottle $561.60 per case
2010 BOURGUEIL “LES PERRIÈRES”
C. & P. BRETON
Crossing the Loire river from Chinon brings us to Bourgueil, where the dynamic and biodynamic duo Catherine and Pierre Breton have focused their red wine production. Les Perrières is the Bretons’ answer to Baudry’s Croix Boissée and Joguet’s Dioterie: old-vine Cabernet Franc planted on clay and limestone slopes, giving a full-bodied and extremely long-lived Bourgueil that warrants decanting to be appreciated in its youth. The 2010 Perrières highlights that vineyard’s terroir with its chalky minerality, giving it a chiseled edge to complement the savory depth and fleshy berry fruit.
$42.00 per bottle $453.60 per case