I FRATELLI FANTINO
by Dixon Brooke
With open arms and hearts we welcome the Fantino brothers, Alessandro and Gian Natale, into the KLWM portfolio and family. The brothers work a small slice of prime Barolo country in the Bussia cru, just north of their family home and cantina in Monforte d’Alba. Their home away from home is the subzone of Bussia they call “Cascina Dardi”—ancient vines planted on steep, southeastern slopes and farmed almost exclusively by them. Their Nebbiolo grapes are vinified with sage-like omniscience in Monforte, in old botti reserved for the purpose. We proudly present three of their latest creations.
2009 BAROLO BUSSIA “CASCINA DARDI”
This wine is about as seductive and pretty as the king of wines can be. It is so good right now, I don’t even counsel you to wait. The velvety texture and luxurious fruit of this delicious Nebbiolo beckon.
$55.00 per bottle $594.00 per case
2005 LABORO “DISUBBIDIENTE”
This disobedient child does not wear its true designation, Barolo Riserva, thanks to a technicality with the DOCG declaration. The Fantino brothers decided to vinify and age this Barolo exactly as their ancestors had: it never touched anything but old wood, and no modern technology was employed in its production. The result is a decidedly old-school, incredibly complex and layered Barolo that delivers a succession of aromatic, flavor, and emotional sensations.
$65.00 per bottle $702.00 per case
2004 BAROLO BUSSIA
“CASCINA DARDI” RISERVA
The most “reserved” of this bunch, the Fantino Barolo Riserva is released in very small batches. The 2004 has a grand structure and a deep boldness that give way with substantial aeration to perfumed elegance and finesse. Ten years old today, it will need another five years before it starts to reveal its true personality, and then I suspect it will drink well for many, many more.
$65.00 per bottle $702.00 per case