KERMIT LYNCH WINE MERCHANT

Domaine Michel Brégeon

Founded by Michel Brégeon and run today by Fred Lailler, this historic domaine helped to redefine Muscadet as we know it thanks to Michel's crusading efforts throughout his career. Over the years, he became an ardent defender of the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir, the most highly regarded of the seven appellations in the Pays Nantais. Thanks to his deep understanding of the nuances of the land, he played the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and négociants, whose tendency to mass-produce threatened to destroy the appellation's reputation. For seven years, Michel worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, the domaine comprises 8.5 hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blueish-green, igneous rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma solidified deep inside the Earth's crust, it is said to impart complexity, length, and intense minerality to the domaine’s wines. This corner of the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine, Gorges, is particularly known for this soil, and all of the domaine's vines are planted in it. Gorges was among the first crus of the Sèvre-et-Maine appellation to be recognized in 2011.

Though Muscadet (made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape) has been commonly known to produce young, fresh wines, (even those that spend a few months sur lie), Michel broke the mold, keeping some of his wines on the lees for as much as seven years! These wines are aged in subterranean glass-lined cuves, as local tradition dictates, and while they always drink well upon release, they have a proven track record of aging. The unexpected freshness and depth of these older wines has silenced many a skeptic. Tastings at the domaine of bottled vintages spanning twenty years are the stuff of KLWM lore. An older wine from Brégeon has similarities to aged Chablis, gaining in weight while developing an earthy, mineral bouquet of surprising complexity.

Our collaboration with the domaine is one of the longest-running of our portfolio, dating back to 1979. Though Michel retired after the 2010 vintage, the domaine’s legacy lives on with the young vigneron, and Muscadet native, Fred Lailler. Since taking over from Michel, Fred has continued the Brégeon ethic of producing serious, terroir-driven Muscadet of great complexity and aging potential. He has even completed an organic conversion for the domaine's vineyards—a rare feat in a region still dominated by high-yielding, intensive viticulture. Tasting a Muscadet from Domaine Brégeon is enough to convince anyone of the caliber of a terroir like Gorges, and proof that the region is capable of much more than the simple quaffer.

Château Graville-Lacoste

Hervé Dubourdieu’s easy charm and modest disposition are complemented by his focus and ferocious perfectionism. He prefers to keep to himself, spending most of his time with his family in his modest, tasteful home, surrounded by his vineyards in the Sauternes and Graves appellations. Roûmieu-Lacoste, situated in Haut Barsac, originates from his mother’s side of the family, dating back to 1890. He also owns Château Graville-Lacoste and Château Ducasse, where he grows grapes for his Graves Blanc and Bordeaux Blanc, respectively. In the words of Dixon Brooke, “Hervé is as meticulous a person as I have encountered in France’s vineyards and wineries. Everything is kept in absolutely perfect condition, and the wines showcase the results of this care – impeccable.” Hervé is incredibly hard on himself. Despite the pedigree and complexity of the terroir and the quality of the wines, he has never been quite satisfied to rest on his laurels, always striving to outdo himself. This is most evident in his grape-sorting process for the Sauternes. Since botrytis is paramount to making great Sauternes, he employs the best harvesters available, paying them double the average wage to discern between the “noble rot,” necessary to concentrate the sugars for Sauternes, and deleterious rot. Hervé is so fastidious that he will get rid of a whole basket of fruit if a single grape with the harmful rot makes it in with healthy ones to be absolutely sure to avoid even the slightest contamination. Another thing that we love about Hervé is that he would rather entrust the selling to us than be away from his vines, so he lets us buy the lion’s share of his production. This is an important factor in keeping wine of this quality at so low a price.
Roûmieu-Lacoste is in the climat of Haut Barsac, an area famous (and in fact more renowned historically than the Sauternes appellation as a whole) for its particularly robust, powerfully styled moelleux with pronounced acidity. The vineyards are just across the road from First Growth Château Climens on a similar soil: calcareous clay on fissured rock, peppered with red iron, white limestone, and grey flint gravel. The Graville-Lacoste property produces a Graves Blanc, known primarily for its stony soil composition and fresh minerality. This wine and the Bordeaux Blanc of Château Ducasse are very different from others from their appellations: Hervé blends a high proportion of Sémillon (60%) and a splash of Muscadelle (5%) with Sauvignon Blanc (35%), creating a rich, full, aromatic mid-palate to complement the clean finish. These are the perfect go-to whites that pair well with anything from fish to poultry, picnic fare to Indian curries.

Clos Sainte Magdeleine

The ancient fishing village of Cassis has seen its fair share of visitors over the millennia. Greek sailors from Phocaea established the nearby colony of Massalia (modern-day Marseille) in the sixth century BC, bringing their viticultural savvy to the region and planting what are thought to be Provence's first vineyards. The Romans later made their way here, establishing Cassis as an important fishing and commercial port while further developing the wine trade. Local wines earned an excellent reputation over the centuries, especially a sweet Muscat said to be among the Mediterranean's finest. In 1865, phylloxera struck, effectively destroying Provence's vineyards; when Cassis was replanted in the subsequent years, Muscat was left out in favor of Ugni Blanc, Clairette, and other grapes selected for production of dry whites. In 1936, Cassis gained the distinction of being named among France’s first official AOCs, in the elite company of Tavel and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Cassis is not only an active port, but what Kermit calls “an earthly paradise.” The vineyards of Clos Sainte Magdeleine are particularly stunning: they jut out on a private cape to meet majestic limestone bluffs, poised spectacularly above the sparkling, azure waters. The domaine also has prized holdings on steep terraces carved into the sensational Cap Canaille, France's highest sea cliff perched 400 meters over the Mediterranean. Only a dozen vignerons today are fortunate enough to produce AOC Cassis (the appellation covers just 215 hectares), and the small quantities available are largely consumed locally with fresh fish—the best way to enjoy them. The Sack-Zafiropulo family has been making wine here for four generations and continues to craft whites of grace and finesse, just as they did when founder Jules Savon won the Gold Medal for the domaine at the World’s Fair in 1900. That they share their limited quantities with us makes this long-term relationship all the more special.

Viticulture and vinification at Clos Sainte Magdeleine are under the direction of Jonathan Sack, who took the reins from his father, François, in 2008. The domaine bottles both whites and rosés, the latter of which are especially limited. Sack completed conversion to organic viticulture in 2012, a philosophic progression after years of sustainable farming. He has also introduced new ideas from concrete egg vinification to experimentation with Vermentino, exploring the immense potential of this striking maritime terroir with curiosity and precision. The seaside location and abundant limestone yield delicate, mineral wines perfumed of wild herbs and flowers, with a trademark saline finish. Clos Sainte Magdeleine’s success lies in an uncanny ability to capture a dichotomous nerve and sun-kissed unctuousness in their wines, making them both incredibly food-friendly and delicious entirely on their own.

Meyer-Fonné

Strangely enough, Kermit came upon the Meyer-Fonné wines for the first time at his home down in Provence. He was tasting with Daniel Ravier, the winemaker at Domaine Tempier, and the two were blown away at the first, dazzling sip; now that we’ve all gotten to know the domaine, we understand why. Félix Meyer is a rising star in Alsace and has an evident instinct for his craft. He is the third generation in his family to be making wine since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. Since taking over in 1992, Félix has already left his own mark, modernizing equipment in the winery, developing export sales, and now expanding the family’s holdings in many of Alsace’s great vineyard sites, including several grand crus.

It’s all about the details at Meyer-Fonné, with an emphasis on tradition and respect for terroir. The winery and family home is in the village of Katzenthal, known for its distinctive granite soils. Meyer is a master at the art of blending and astutely applies this skill in mixing the wine from various parcels into complex, balanced cuvées. He also believes in raising his wines on fine lees in large, older foudres, as was the tradition in Alsace. All of Meyer’s bottlings are characterized by stunning aromatics and a signature backbone of minerality and nerve. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar. For aromatic and textural seductiveness, no one in Alsace can top Meyer-Fonné.

Comtesse de Chérisey

The lost hamlet of Blagny, up in the hills between Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault in the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, is home to Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey. You may have heard the name “Blagny” before, attached to a bottle of premier cru Meursault-Blagny, or perhaps even a bottle of the increasingly rare Blagny rouge. Monks were the first inhabitants, planting vines in the 14th century. This almost magical, lost-in-time corner of the world boasts a unique microclimate, with a slightly different average temperature, exposition and soil than the rest of Burgundy. In our humble opinion, our friend and vigneron, Laurent Martelet, creates the most haunting masterpieces that emerge from this terroir. Laurent bottles the wines we import under the Comtesse de Chérisey label named in honor of his wife Hélène’s mother, who inherited their vines and passed them on to Hélène, who works side by side with Laurent.
All of the de Chérisey premier cru vines are at least 60 years old and they encircle their ancient cellar in the Hameau de Blagny. Their Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny is from vines on the south side of Blagny, level with the village, just above Puligny Truffières. It is a wine that combines the power and richness of Meursault with the ethereal finesse of Puligny. Laurent’s Puligny-Montrachet1er Cru Les Chalumaux is from vines just below Blagny, between the aforementioned Truffières and Meursault-Perrières. If you were a Chardonnay vine it wouldn’t be a bad place to put down your roots. The wine is loaded with white limestone and gives a very fine, intensely focused white Burgundy, très Puligny, screaming with minerality. It doesn’t have the renown of its neighbors, but it should. The Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Genelotte is from a vineyard just north of Blagny, on the Meursault side of course, high on the slope above the village. The wine is a powerful, classic, long-lived Meursault. The Genelotte vineyard is also a monopole meaning Laurent and Hélène are sole proprietors.

Château de Bellevue

The good-natured proprietor of the Château de Bellevue, André Chatenoud, seems more at home in his cellars than anywhere else.  Though he and his family have owned the property since 1971, the history of the château dates back to at least the 18th Century.  One needs only to explore the incredible limestone caves and see the rich range of old graffiti engravings to be impressed: from harvest workers of the 1700s to American G.I.’s of the 1940s, so many of its visitors have been eager to mark their place in time through the walls of this small yet refined estate.  Like other châteaux of the region, the winery is adorned with the elegant architecture of the era - the “chartreuse bordelaise.” This typical 18th century edifice is built in a U-shape, using quarried stone from under the vineyard.  It is very practical: you make a living from the upper layers of soil and build your house from the deeper limestone.
Lussac St-Émilion is found on the Right Bank of the Bordelais, and is often regarded as a “satellite” appellation of St-Émilion.  The terroir here is characterized by exceptional quality – only surprising because the great, low prices here at Bellevue stand to shift the perceptions of what good Bordeaux should cost.  All twelve hectares of the clay and limestone vineyards are farmed organically and were certified through the French agency, Ecocert in 2002.  All grapes are de-stemmed and only native yeasts are used. Wines are aged in the subterranean cellars for two years before bottling.  There is a beautiful mineral components and freshness to all three wines:  The Sauvignon Gris (a local, white, heirloom varietal), the Lussac St-Émilion “Les Griottes” (a fresh, easy-drinking cuvée of 100% Merlot), and finally their classic Lussac St-Émilion (comprised of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc). Recent tastings of Bellevue’s 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2005 vintages prove that one need not pay a high premium for age-worthy, elegant Bordeaux.  With such lushness and mineral backbone, this small estate’s offerings only stand to impress.

Gregoletto

The Gregoletto family name can be found in historical archives dating from the late 16th, early 17th century, as viticoltori in the hills of Premaor di Miane, near Valdobbiadene. When driving through this area today, the true heart of what is now the Prosecco DOCG, one is struck by the primitive nature of these hills. Gazing up at the steep, rustic ravines covered in wooden stakes and head-trained vines, you instantly are aware that this area of the world has changed very, very little over the centuries—viticulturally speaking. The Gregoletto family has two real specialties: semi-sparkling wine made sui lieviti or on its lees (also known as col fondo), and still wine made from grapes most commonly used to make sparkling wine. They are among the very last growers in the Veneto to cultivate the indigenous Verdiso grape, making magnificent tranquillo and sui lieviti bottlings from it. They also make Prosecco in all of its forms: still, demi-sec, semi-sparkling, and metodo classico.

All of the family’s work from the vines to the bottling is done by hand—artisanally, carefully, and patiently—based on oral traditions passed down over the centuries. Many of their secrets are closely guarded. The sui lieviti bottlings represent the history of this region before the Champagne method was invented. Secondary fermentation takes place in bottle slowly and a fine sediment forms in the bottom of the bottle–by carefully pouring the wine you can easily leave the sediment in the bottle. The Gregolettos recommend using the small amount of wine with this fondo or remaining deposit for making risotto! Rest assured, it is also perfectly safe to drink.

The Gregoletto family’s wines are incredibly pure, refreshing, and elegant and can be enjoyed effortlessly. They provide instant pleasure.

Jean-Baptiste Arena

The path to becoming a vigneron was a natural one for Jean-Baptiste Arena, son of famed Corsican producer Antoine Arena. Growing up at the family domaine in Patrimonio, Jean-Baptiste enjoyed constant exposure to the wine world through his father’s work, gaining invaluable experience through sales trips to Parisian wine bars and other public tastings with vigneron friends all over Europe—not to mention what he picked up in his very own backyard.

Though he attended law school in Nice after studying viticulture in Bastia, the draw back to the Ile de Beauté proved irresistible, and following a harvest internship in Burgundy, he ultimately returned home in 2001 to join the family domaine. “This happened naturally, as our parents had transmitted their love and passion for this land and everything that springs from it,” Jean-Baptiste discloses.

As of the 2014 vintage, the Arenas have divided their holdings evenly between Antoine, Jean-Baptiste, and his younger brother, Antoine-Marie. In a typically Corsican spirit of self-reliance, Antoine’s sons will carry on the family tradition through their very own domaines, enjoying the autonomy to work the way they desire while maintaining close family bonds and a free exchange of ideas. Choosing who would work which of the family’s numerous lieux-dits proved an easier task than one might expect. In fact, the three easily agreed as to how they should divvy up the Arena holdings, each claiming his favorite parcels to look after independently.

Jean-Baptiste explains, “We will continue to work together all while maintaining our independence. The general philosophy will not change—namely, farming will be 100% organic and vinifications will occur without any additions, save a little sulfites for the whites.” Embracing his father’s respect for the land, Jean-Baptiste will also welcome the liberty of taking the initiative with ideas of his own. His first step is to improve his working conditions: “Two new cellars are in the works; mine is destined for stocking and aging, while I will continue to vinify in the family’s historic cellars.” Additional plans are in place to experiment with new fermentation vessels. The future is certainly bright for this impassioned young talent, leaving no doubt the Arena legacy will live on through Jean-Baptiste, symbolizing the best that Corsica’s terroir has to offer.

Domaine du Gros ’Noré

Alain Pascal could be a character pulled right out of a Marcel Pagnol novel—a kind of Provençal Hercules. Like his father, Honoré, for whom the domaine is named, Alain is a strong, husky man with hands the size of bear claws. That he is a former boxer and an avid hunter should be no surprise, yet his physique matches both his spirit and his wine—this gentle giant and his cuvées are all heart. Of the many stories recorded in Kermit’s Inspiring Thirst, those of Alain are among the most entertaining. For years he sold his prized fruit from Bandol to Domaine Ott and Château de Pibarnon. Though he and his father would bottle their own wine for family consumption, they never labeled it under their own domaine name. Kermit has called those early family wines, “Magnificent Bandols made in the simplest manner, très franc de goût, with a whole lotta soul.” In 1997 after his father’s death, Alain officially started Domaine du Gros ‘Noré, a real shift that has brought him more than just casual notice. Alain is already a leading contender in Bandol, the appellation regarded as the grand cru of Provence.
He farms sixteen hectares of vineyards with the help of his brother, Guy, on the rolling hillsides around La Cadière d’Azur. The vineyards are composed of both clay and limestone, imparting a pronounced structure of earthy, splintered rock. This microclimate near the Mediterranean brings warm weather and full sun, tempered by the persistent Mistral. Alain leaves his grapes to mature fully on the vine, lending great intensity to the fruit. Where appellation law demands that each blend includes at least 50 percent Mourvèdre, Alain uses 80 percent—a choice that gives more power and concentration to the final assemblage.   Do not be fooled by the strength and boldness of the Gros ‘Noré Bandol, though; underneath a big exterior is a wine of character, depth, complexity, soul, and finesse.

Bernard Baudry

Bernard Baudry is unquestionably one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers. Not only does he have the talent to make delicious and consistent wines, vintage to vintage, but he is also fortunate enough to have vineyard land that showcases many of the varied soil types of the appellation. After completing his studies at the viticultural school in Beaune, Bernard returned to the Loire Valley to consult in Tours. By 1975, he had purchased his first two hectares of land in Cravant-les-Coteaux, a village from which almost half of the production of A.O.C. Chinon is sourced. Over the years, the domaine has grown to twenty-five hectares. Bernard’s son, Matthieu, joined the family domaine in 2000 after studying winemaking in the Mâconnais and Bordeaux, with internships both in Tasmania and California!
The Baudrys work vineyards composed of gravel, sand, limestone, silica, and clay. The variations of terroir and vinification methods make each of their cuvées unique and distinct. Bernard and Matthieu focus the lion’s share of their production on Chinon Rouge, five fine cuvées of Cabernet Franc, all aged in old and new barrels in their incredible cellars chiseled out of tuffeau behind the winery. They make a surprising Chinon Blanc, a rarity to find let alone to import, as well as a stunning Chinon Rosé.  The Baudrys are staunch traditionalists, and you would have a hard time finding a Chinon more classic than theirs.