2015 vieux tÉlÉgraphe
by Anthony Lynch
Vieux Télégraphe’s greatest strength is undoubtedly its consistency. I am not referring to the consistency resulting from now four generations of Bruniers who know the plateau of La Crau stone for stone, as crucial as this is. Rather, I am alluding to the timeless power of this terroir, which allows for wines of noble character, profound complexity, and unrivaled typicity year in and year out.
There is no questionthat vintage variation exists at Vieux Télégraphe— one need only taste two diametrically opposed vintages side by side, such as 2007 and 2008, to observe this phenomenon. Yet even in 2003, an infamous year in which climactic extremes all but erased the nuances of terroir across France’s wine regions, V.T. remains V.T.—ripe, no doubt, but defined more by stone than by fruit. And such is how La Crau asserts itself: the stones are omnipresent, supplying a firm spine to the wine, a salivating mineral aspect that refreshes regardless of the vintage’s overall balance.
Vigneron Daniel Brunier decribes 2015 as “a superb vintage that once again proves that nothing great can be done hurriedly.” His statement applies to the growing season, which necessitated late rains to restore balance to the drought afflicted grapes, as well as to the harvest, an exercise in patience and restraint, and finally to the vinification, in which extended macerations yielded deep tannic structures that reached a seamless integration during the wine’s élevage.
In other words, 2015 showcases La Crau in all its glory. From its pure and explosive young fruit to the wine’s momentous structure, culminating in its trademark stoniness, this is V.T. as we love it and as we have always known it.
$828.00 per case fifths
also available in tenths, magnums, jeroboams,
methuselahs, salmanazars, and nebuchadnezzars
Pre-arrival terms: Half-payment due with order;
balance due upon arrival.