by Anthony Lynch
Philippe Faury and his son Lionel have established themselves as masters of old-school Syrah, producing wines rich with terroir that show off the immense aromatic potential of reds from the steep slopes that rise from the Rhône river. The Faurys also have some land planted to white grapes, and their traditionalist approach results in equally compelling wines from Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. As with their reds, the aroma is most striking: these wines possess a delicacy and purity of expression that begs for sniff after sniff until you forget you planned to actually ingest the wine in the first place. This is not to denigrate how the wines feel on the palate—they straddle the line between lusciousness and restraint. While the crowd flocks to massive, terroir-less, often oaky northern Rhônes, we flock to Faury!
2012 CONDRIEU
Unctuous and powerful, the 2012 Condrieu seems at the same time remarkably delicate and graceful, with an explosive array of gorgeous aromas. This is the pinnacle of Viognier—it expresses its characteristic flower-scented nature without being overbearingly Viognier-y. Open a bottle for your apéritif tonight and you’ll be in for a treat.
$57.00 per bottle $615.60 per case
2011 SAINT JOSEPH BLANC
This Saint Joseph is for those of us who appreciate qualities like subtlety and elegance in a wine. Yes, it coats the mouth in the way that taking a bite of fruit salad causes delicious nectar to ooze over the tongue, but it does so gently and tenderly, caressing the palate with a peachy freshness. It does not flaunt its beauty but rather sits calmly, waiting in total serenity for someone like you to revel in its virtues.
$32.00 per bottle $345.60 per case